Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
